On 30th April 2018, I took a solo trip to experience the life in the highlands and Borneo secluded mountain village of Bakelalan, or som named Ba'kelalan.
There are 2 ways to get there. By twin otter, 16 seater from Miri/Lawas, or by 4WD drive from Lawas, 4 hours.
I was supposed to go there in 2017 but the plane had to U-turn back due to bad weather. You have to transit at Lawas if you flew in from Miri. It took me another year to visit this place and I never regretted this joutney. Looking back, it is probably one of the most memorable 2 nights stay.
ba'kelalan was separated from other towns due to its valley position in the highlands. The tribe of Lum Bawang lived there and is closely related to the Kelabits in Bario. Due to the geographical limitation and forestation, despite being 30mins plane ride distance (from take off and arrival), it will take at least 6 days by foot to travel.
There are primary schools there and the people there are friendly. People rarely do visit this place is less renowned than the Bario counterpart. Nonetheless, it share distinct culture heritage: The Atan Rice, Salt Well, Local Delicacy and Food, Paddy fields, Monoliths and others. Most of their history can be traced from books with information documented from the seniors. I remembered about their history is traced to a far valley but they left that place due to plague and diseases.
People would wake up early in the morning to go for prayer under a SIB church. A similar culture in Bario of morning prayer.
You can finish touring the main village (nearest to the airport) Buduk Nur in half a day by foot. People lived in these sort of houses and depends on Diesel Genset for electricity at night. Some does not afford to have Diesel Genset so they slept early. A common culture in these villages is that usually youngster left the village for work, either in far away village or towns eg: Lawas or Miri. The old have to take care of their own.
There are some teachers, army and border patrol guards in ba'kelalan vicinity (clustered village) and they loves Badminton, i joined in for game.
I was met an Old lady who told me his son works as a Army at a different village. She lived alone and took care of her life. She invited me in to have a chat, showed me their family photo and it felt so heart warmed. She even offered me a bag of Atan Rice before I left but I didn't felt nice to take.
There are many villages, some being hours and hours away from Buduk Nur. I followed this trail to hike the Pa Sarui Viewpoint of sort (next to Buduk Nur ) to have this valley view of the area.
Overlooking the paddy fields, the main economy generator.
Little Puppy is so attracted to me that she followed me for a 50mins hike up and another 30mins down and also as I explored the next village Long Langai to see the local primary school.
The wild wild west setting of Long Langai with my guide and puppy dog from Buduk Nur. It took 1 hour plus by foot to reach this "cowboy" town setting
Some innovative locals build this Petrol Station with metering flow to supply to locals and adjacent villages from Indonesia (Long Bawan). These days usually Long Bawans Indonesian prefer to drive to Lawas after Road Condition improved.
The primary school in Long Langai is the focal for most of the other villages focal for early education.
Apple used to be very famous and abundant in Ba'kelalan but climate change changes
A local waterfall by 50mins hike which supplies water and hydroelectric to the selected houses in Ba'kelalan. Those who are related and have status or some monetary status enjoyed this.
Dinner was prepared by the homestay aunty with my favourite bamboo shoot. I searched for the homestay upon arrival at the village. I did not booked in advance which was pretty spontaneous of me when I planned this journey. I lived in Pak Yudan Homestay. He is the village head for Ba'kelalan. There is also the choices of Julia Sang Homestay (She's a teacher), Owl House Homestay (favourite choices for bird lovers though the homestay is few mins away from the main Buduk Nur), and Apple Farm homestay, the nearest to the ariport. I remembered I didnt choose that as I was not ok with that rate.
I took a few hours walk the next day to the Border of Long Bawan as I stepped one foot in Malaysia, one foot in Indonesia. I didnt even have my passport that time too. The border patrol rotate every few months to be stationed here. In fact, some relatives are separated due to the border line draw up and during the early days of Contfrontation between Both country.
A cat who is so friendly and ran towards me to play. A city cat would be too proud to show, but this cat is beyond adorable.
A local dish that the Lum Bawang believed to be a cancer prevention (Please drop down the comment if you know the name)
The walkway towards Long Langai, you can enjoy the mist in early morning, a feature not available once the weathers gets hotter due to Climate Change.
Drop me a comment if you need to know more information about Ba'kelalan
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